QE2 Autumn Colours 2008 -- a photo diary

[Isabelle Prondzynski]

During this our last voyage on QE2, I wrote up a diary every day. And every night, I uploaded a small selection of photos to Flickr to accompany the text, so that our family and friends could have a look at what we were up to.

What a wonderful voyage it was -- enjoy the stories and the memories!

[Isabelle Prondzynski]

We had booked the “Autumn Colours” voyage on QE2 in July 2007, well over a year before it was due to take place. And all that time, we were looking forward to seeing QE2 again, happy that we could do so before she is sent to Dubai. There were arrangements to be made -- sorting out who looks after the dogs and the garden, whether visa would be needed, how to get to Southampton, and all the usual practical details. And then, one day, it was only a week to go, and finally, departure day was tomorrow.

Because of the necessary travel, we slept very little in the run-up to the voyage, and by the time we reached Southampton, felt thoroughly tired, exhausted, and not in the most buoyant of moods. QM2 was in town that day, at the Mayflower Terminal, and we had decided in advance that we wanted to take a peek at her before heading for the Queen Elizabeth II Terminal. The taxi driver was able to take us right up to where she lay, and we stopped long enough to take photos and to realise that, seen close up, she really is very different from QE2. A possible ship for another crossing or cruise another time? What we saw, did not immediately turn us into enthusiasts. But it was good to have caught a glimpse of all three “Cunard Queens” within a couple of months and be able to think about another possible journey after QE2 heads for Dubai... think, yes, but not dream...

From Mayflower Terminal, we headed for the QEII Terminal, and as we got nearer and nearer, our mood lifted, enthusiasm returned, a couple of nudges and pinches appeared -- and then, there she was! And there was the drop-off point, and the embarkation queue, already formed by the door, as yet closed but about to open. Check-in went well -- but with the consequence that my Mum and I acquired a mixed identity -- her details and photos on my card with my name, and mine on hers. It took us days to return to our separate identities!

From there, into the embarkation hall, and a seat for our Mum. Pia queued for drinks for us all, but I could not wait a moment longer and dashed up to the viewing terrace, where, on a grey Southampton day, QE2 lay and breathed and ticked over as she waited for us to board and be on her way again.

I am always overwhelmed when I see her -- a huge, beautiful, living ship with her own character and history and so much life both within and around. Giving life and work and leisure and joy to so many.

There was just one man on the terrace at this time -- a man with a camera, who told me something about his own joy and sadness. He had been on board once for 16 weeks, a full World Cruise and a bit more. He had got to know many of the staff and had helped out in the kitchens for a while. A man full of happy memories and full of sadness that QE2 would be herself no more.

But at the start of a cruise, it is happiness that takes over. When Pia arrived, bearing two cups of tea, the QE2 champagne of happiness started to bubble. Photos of each other, happy and relaxed, full of life, with tiredness forgotten. We hardly noticed embarkation time approaching -- and then, it was there! We were among the first group to be allowed on board.

The embarkation photo -- the gangway into the ship -- the QE2 with her own personal smell -- the harpist in the Midships Lobby -- the waiters helping us with our bags -- the suitcases already in our cabins -- and the joy of seeing those corridors, stairways, lifts and cabins again! Champagne ready for us, and fresh strawberries too -- life just cannot get much better.

QE2 is like champagne -- bubbly and invigorating -- all tiredness was soon forgotten, as we set out on a beautiful sailaway.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/prondis_in_kenya/2848982357/



I uploaded the diary photos on QE2 each day, for our friends and family. They are just a few pictures every time -- such as these for Day 1 :

https://www.flickr.com/search/?w=55206992%40N00&q=forum1&m=tags

[Isabelle Prondzynski]

Woke up this morning, and for the first time in my life felt seasick! Not a good idea, on what must be one of the best days of this voyage. 7 metre high waves, wind force 7, and lots of beautiful breakers going squoosh over the bows, with the spray flying all the way up to the Bridge. This is what I had been looking forward to! Instead, I found it hard to drag myself out of bed, harder to wash,  even harder to get dressed, and quite impossible to leave the cabin.

So, I could enjoy the waves breaking close to my porthole, and watch this extraordinary spectacle on the bridgecam TV channel. QE2 is wonderfully stable in a choppy sea. She rises and falls, occasionally rolls a bit, but that is all. The woodwork in the cabins creaks, and one has the wonderful feeling in bed that one is being rocked to sleep.

Getting up was more difficult.

But we had been given some literature about seasickness, and so, I rang the Purser’s Office and asked for medicine. And when I added that I was quite incapable of walking over to fetch it, it was brought to my cabin immediately. As it works better with some food, the cabin steward set out to bring me some tea and biscuits. Not long after taking the tablet, I felt distinctly better, though drowsy, and slept for the rest of the morning -- surprising my Mum by turning up for lunch and eating well.

In the afternoon, I ventured out on Boat Deck and found the sea and the ship, just as I had expected -- exhilarating! QE2 cutting through the high waves with determination and serenity, the waves breaking and the spray flying not just on the foredeck, but here and there on the promenade decks as well. A few passengers out, enjoying the air and the sense of adventure. We all had to look after our cameras, not really made to cope with sea water. For a few moments, a shower pelted down, each drop hitting our faces like tiny pebbles. There was the start of a rainbow on the horizon, then the rain stopped, and it was back to the wind, the waves, the sky and the ship. A moment I shall not easily forget!

My sister Pia did not turn up all day. She got seasick more than I did, and was given an injection, which did not get rid of the nausea for her. My Mum, as expected, did not suffer at all, except for the physical difficulties involved in walking about. But even during the morning, while I rested, she found willing helpers, especially in the restaurant, where the waiter, and later the Assistant Maître d’, took her arm and escorted her all the way to her table, and all the way back out of the restaurant again. She was enchanted and full of praise at this courtesy and consideration.

As I write, QE2 is riding the waves, under a waxing moon, and I shall take another stroll round the deck before dropping into my comfortable bed.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/prondis_in_kenya/2848991569/



More photos of the day here :

https://www.flickr.com/search/?&w=55206992@N00&m=&q=forum2

[Jem]

Wonderful writing Isabelle. Almost feel as if I'm with you. The photo's of the force 7 are great. Those sort of sea's really make you feel alive.

[QE2 whistle]

Wow, what a lovely idea.  Loved the picture of the wake in heavy seas.  Reminds me of our transatlantics when we used to be out there and she would be creaking.  Wish wew were there right now.

[Rob Lightbody]

Brilliant stuff Isabelle, looking forward to reliving the whole thing with you.

keep it coming, but take your time if you wish, no need to rush a trip on the QE2

[Isabelle Prondzynski]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/prondis_in_kenya/2852245026/

Today, this detail caught my eye... Mothersills Seasick Remedy...!

When I turned up for breakfast today, after a wonderful slumber, Pia had revived too, and we were ready to tuck into the excellent food which the Britannia Grill offers. The fabulous choice starts at breakfast time, with Swedish herrings, maple syrup pancakes, egg Benedict, porridge, Birchermuesli and (almost) anything else that one could possibly want at this time of day. Freshly squeezed orange juice, as well as tea, coffee, etc.

And as we enjoyed our meals twice as much today, I am adding a couple of pictures. The Britannia Grill must be one of the best restaurants in the world, and the service cannot be bettered. The staff are friendly, courteous and kind, and they have a knack of remembering one’s likes and foibles with alarming speed. I was slightly consoled for my embarrassing seasickness yesterday by knowing that some of the staff too had been under the weather, returning today looking less and less wan as the day went on.

We have still been enjoying the waves and the wind, now that they are slightly abated, and continue on our way to America at an average speed of 23 knots.

More photos of the day here :

https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=forum3&w=55206992%40N00&m=tags

[Isabelle Prondzynski]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/prondis_in_kenya/2854344174/

For the first time, following Thomas Quinones on his Cunard Heritage Trail round QE2. The history of Cunard, of QE2 herself, and of the various items of art and Cunard history scattered and preserved around the ship.

Thomas Quinones visibly loves the ship, and enthuses about his subject, drawing in even reluctant participants and thoroughly earning a round of applause at the end.

For every item he showed, he asked "And where will this go in November? Will it go back to its original owners? No, it will go to... Dubai...". There was just one single exception to this answer -- the Mauretania painting to be returned to Newcastle.

More diary photos of Day 4 here :

https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=forum4&m=&w=55206992%40N00&z=e

[Isabelle Prondzynski]

On Sundays at sea, the Captain leads an interdenominational Service for the ship, and today was one of those rare occasions when I have been present on such a day. Captain Ian McNaught was brought up in the Church of England, and as he led the Service, one would hardly have known that he was not a church worker himself. He stayed very much with the standard text, printed for such Services on QE2, merely adding that, after our stormy days this week, we had seen sufficient “tempestuous seas” and had reasons to be thankful (this by way of introduction to the hymn “Lead us, heavenly Father, lead us o’er the world’s tempestuous seas”).



https://www.flickr.com/photos/prondis_in_kenya/2860215599/

The congregation completely filled the Theatre, and I was glad that my Mum and Pia had kept me a seat while I had run out to hear the ship’s foghorn tooting at regular 2-minute intervals over the banks of the St Lawrence off Newfoundland.

From today's Daily Programme :

"Today's track takes us south of the Grand Banks of Newfoundland. Shortly before noon we will pass the 'Tail of the Bank'. The 'F' word : Sailors are generally very superstitious folk. One common belief is that the mere mention of a particular three letter word that begins with an 'f', ends with a 'g' and has an 'o' in the middle can cause white fluffy stuff to appear around the ship. So when onboard ship, one must be very careful about using the 'F' word! This is particularly important in the vicinity of the Grand Banks, where white fluffy stuff (also known as fob!) is a common feature."

After the Service, the Captain and the senior officers, all in immaculate white uniforms, stayed for a while to chat with members of the congregation, before making their way to the Bridge for the noon announcement of the ship’s progress and position.

Today, for the first time since our sailaway from Southampton, the deck under the Bridge was open to us, and it was a huge pleasure to look out again over the foredeck and see QE2 steadily moving forward in the sea. There was a lovely silver light around us, and the sea was calmer than we have seen it so far, with temperatures rising and many passengers taking to the deck chairs and the steamer chairs in various stages of dress and undress.

In the afternoon, we were invited to a wine tasting in the Caronia Restaurant, led by the Chief Sommelier of QE2. We were each given 5 glasses, neatly set out on a special table mat, and one by one these were filled with wine, two whites and three reds. The sommelier explained how a wine tasting is done and introduced us to some of the things to watch out for and some of the vocabulary -- which was a lot of fun. At the end, Pia and I decided that we still liked the wine waiting for us in Britannia Grill, better than the ones we had tried -- but we had enjoyed the experience and learnt something new.

And these are the diary photos of Day 5 :

https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=forum5&w=55206992%40N00&m=tags

[Isabelle Prondzynski]

https://www.flickr.com/photos/prondis_in_kenya/2861931252/

This is Five Deck with its crooked alleyways, winding around the funnel. I developed a particular fondness for it in July 2008, when I lived here for a few excellent days and nights.

This time, I have been more aware of QE2 living and breathing than on previous occasions. During the storm, she heaved and groaned as much as I did, and even when the seas calmed down, she retained a creaking of woodwork, reminding me of a breathing being. There is also the occasional jangling of clothes hangers, as well as the odd judder here and there.

Walking down the alleyways, I have become aware of her heartbeat -- the closer to the funnel the more so. Last time on board, I walked along every corridor from Five Deck upwards, and located the funnel in each of these, between D and E Stairways. The farther down you go, the broader and longer the funnel is. In Five Deck (this picture), it actually extends well into the alleyway. From Three Deck upwards, the corridor stretches out in a straight line, as the funnel is already narrower at that height and no longer encroaches on the corridor space.

When approaching the funnel on the alleyways, the heartbeat of the engines becomes clearly audible, throbbing like a human heart, perhaps a bit faster. On Five Deck, I find this sound to be particularly clear, and in addition, the floor gently vibrates under my feet. QE2 is alive!

After all that, I cannot imagine what she will be like in Dubai. Not just because of the impending changes, but because she will no longer be a living, breathing ship. At the moment, her engines beat to a rhythm closely resembling a human heart. Her floors vibrate. Her spaces are filled with the sounds of a working ship. Her wooden walls and fittings creak in the waves and the wind. She rocks me to sleep, ever so gently. When all this is no more, when she is stationary and supplied from the public electricity networks, when she is no longer producing her own drinking water, she will be dead. I just cannot imagine this great big living ship in a dead state. And I think I shall not want to experience it either...

More Day 6 diary photos here :

https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=forum6&w=55206992%40N00&m=tags

[Isabelle Prondzynski]

Rare are the days when I get up before 4.00 am -- but for a year or more, I had known that today would be the day to do that! Pia and I were on deck before we reached Ambrose Light (where the New York pilot embarks) at 4.00, and found the lights of New York already all around us in the distance. It was dark and cold and good to be there -- a cup of tea in the Pavillion helped to heat us up after a while.

Approaching the Verrazano Narrows Bridge was as magical as I had imagined. When the time came, we took our positions on the funnel deck and saw the bridge approaching, looking “certain” to hit our funnel, and then passing just inches below the cars above, just as QE2 had been designed to do, more than 40 years ago. One of those moments that will stand out in my life for many years to come!

Together with our Mum, we watched the statue of Liberty approach and pass, and entered the Hudson River on our way to Pier 88, where we would berth. Seeing the skyline of New York, so surreal to us, and seeing this skyline gradually, gradually, lit up by the light of early dawn, was spectacular... And then, QE2 reached for the 709th time to her home from home, which she will see only once more.

My Mum and I spent all our time at breakfast eating, drinking and holding in our hands any hot food and drink we could get hold of, as we now realised how chilled out we had become after our long pre-dawn watch on deck -- the QE2 water glasses, filled with hot water, worked wonders for our hands and our bodies!

A tour round New York showed us the main sights, the great diversity of this huge city, and some of the bridges, including Brooklyn Bridge, which I had always wanted to see.

But the highlight (at least for me!) was returning to the place where we had started and being once again overwhelmed by the beauty of our beautiful ship. One of those moments when I felt fortunate beyond all words...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/prondis_in_kenya/2864905581/



Our sailaway (not the final one, hence no special ceremonies -- which was good in itself, as we experienced a New York sailaway as QE2 has had it countless times) included watching the famous Moran Tugs again doing their highly skilled work, manoeuvring QE2 against the fast flow of the Hudson River. Three tugs were at work and, in this location, some of them need to push QE2 rather than pull her -- the river does all the pulling, and some counterweight is needed to keep her on her track. One of the tugs (Gramma Lee T Moran) spun in salute, and caught up with us again later, to exchange whistle blasts with QE2 as we steamed down the river.

This time, I watched the passage under the Verrazano Bridge from the Boat Deck. And I watched the traffic on the bridge and the traffic on the river and the sea and enjoyed every second. Stayed on the funnel deck for another hour to drink in the golden sunset, until QE2 slowed down almost imperceptibly (with a change of voice for a mere minute or two) to let the pilot depart. The skyline of New York, bathed in the sunset light, stayed with us for another while, and even at this 2-hour distance, I was still able to pick out the lovely shapes of the Empire State Building and the Chrysler Building. What a beautiful day!

More diary photos of Day 7 here :

https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=forum7&m=tags&w=55206992%40N00&z=e

That day, I just had to upload lots -- so they are 29 pictures, starting from the bottom of the selection created by the link.

[Jem]

After all that, I cannot imagine what she will be like in Dubai. Not just because of the impending changes, but because she will no longer be a living, breathing ship. At the moment, her engines beat to a rhythm closely resembling a human heart. Her floors vibrate. Her spaces are filled with the sounds of a working ship. Her wooden walls and fittings creak in the waves and the wind. She rocks me to sleep, ever so gently. When all this is no more, when she is stationary and supplied from the public electricity networks, when she is no longer producing her own drinking water, she will be dead. I just cannot imagine this great big living ship in a dead state. And I think I shall not want to experience it either...

More Day 6 diary photos here :

https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=forum6&w=55206992%40N00&m=tags

Isabelle, so enjoying your TA. I know what you mean about the heart beat of a vessel and how the sound and vibrations rock you to sleep. It really is like being on a breathing living being, I also find it so lovely and reassuring, magical.

[Isabelle Prondzynski]

Isabelle, so enjoying your TA. I know what you mean about the heart beat of a vessel and how the sound and vibrations rock you to sleep. It really is like being on a breathing living being, I also find it so lovely and reassuring, magical.

Thank you, Jem! I too am enjoying reliving this voyage -- the notes I wrote at the time seem so fresh now, and they bring back some of the sounds and smells that are hard to recreate in my memory.

More to look forward to -- at this stage, the cruising part of the three weeks is only beginning... 

[Jem]

Really looking forward to reading the next instalment .

[Isabelle Prondzynski]

Newport, Rhode Island, was an anchor port, where we arrived early in the morning to glorious sunshine, and anchored beside a long, elegant bridge across the bay. Very soon, our lifeboats were off their davits and out ferrying passengers to their excursion tours starting at the town pier.

Some passengers dislike the hassle of tendering -- while I find it a delight. Seeing our beautiful ship anchored in beautiful surroundings, leaving QE2 on her own lifeboats and returning to her, watching her growing distant and then close again, getting a chance to see her from water level and to enjoy the reflections of the light on her hull, or indeed her hull reflected on the water -- all that, for me, is a pleasure in its own right.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/prondis_in_kenya/2870398931/



This time, we were shuttled into Newport by a hired boat, “Amazing Grace”, as our stay was short and queues were long at times. Together with our own lifeboats, this provided a steady stream of traffic for the passengers.

All day, the fact that we had anchored was marked on the foredeck by the presence of a black ball (there must be a proper name for it...) hanging on an extra staff. Shortly after 15.00 hrs, the anchor was weighed, and we watched the anchor cable being wound around the capstan, with the QE2 deck crew from time to time sounding a bell a decreasing number of times, to indicate how much of the anchor cable had already come up. Finally, the bell was rung in a determined manner, and the ball came down and was carried away. We were ready to leave.

Our observations were later confirmed by the Chief Engineer. The combination of ball and bell show the state of progress in bringing the anchor in, and are clearly visible / audible on the bridge right above.

From an anchor position with sufficient space to turn, QE2 can accelerate and be off without the help of tugs. Which is just what she did, blowing her whistle for the benefit of Crystal Symphony and the town of Newport -- with no response received whatsoever. Very soon, we had gathered speed and were moving out of the bay in fine sunny weather.

Meanwhile, the deck crew had not finished their work of stowing the anchor. The cable had already been cleaned and the foredeck hosed down -- but the anchor was not yet properly in place. For at least an hour, the crew worked on the anchor, trying and trying again until finally, all was well and the anchor was properly stowed. The problem turned out to be a uniquely local one -- lobster pots (lobsters are a speciality of the area) and seaweed had become entangled in it, and needed to be shaken off!

Two more anchor ports to look forward to on this voyage!

More Day 8 diary photos here :

https://www.flickr.com/search/?q=forum8&w=55206992%40N00&m=tags

Once again, the story starts at the bottom, and each photo may be opened for more size, text and possible comments.